The capital of
the Riviera and fifth largest city in France, NICE scarcely deserves its glittering
reputation. Living off inflated property values and fat business accounts,
its ruling class has hardly evolved from the eighteenth-century Russian and
English aristocrats who first built their mansions here; today it's the rentiers
and retired people of various nationalities whose dividends and pensions give
the city its startlingly high ratio of per capita income to economic activity.
Nice is a great place for food indulgence, whether you're picnicking on market
fare, snacking on Niçois specialities or dining in the palace hotels.
The Italian influence is strong in all restaurants, with pasta on every menu;
seafood is also a staple. For snacks , many of the cafés sell sandwiches
with typically Provençal fillings such as fresh basil, olive oil, goat's
cheese and mesclum , the unique green salad mix of the region. If you want
to buy the best bread or croissants in town, seek out Espuno , 22 rue Vernier,
in the old town.